Dermatologist Jodi Ganz Details Eye Creams

Do eye creams really work?

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Are eye creams worth the money and extra step in your skincare routine? Jodi Ganz, M.D., a dermatologist at Piedmont, shares what to look for and what to avoid when it comes to the delicate skin around your eyes.

First things first: Do eye creams really work?

&#;I do recommend eye creams,&#; Dr. Ganz says. &#;The skin of the undereye area is very sensitive. Many of the products we use elsewhere on the face &#; such as retinol &#; would not do well for this area. I usually recommend products that are hydrating without being irritating.&#;

She adds that you can begin using a good eye cream at any age.

The benefits of eye creams

Depending on the formula you choose, eye creams can address:

• Dark circles. Choose a formula that contains topical vitamin K to reduce dark shadows.
• Puffiness. Dr. Ganz recommends an eye cream with topical caffeine to minimize undereye bags.
• Wrinkles. &#;Eye creams can be beneficial for wrinkles,&#; she says. &#;I especially like eye creams with growth factors and peptides; these products help to stimulate collagen production and minimize the appearance of wrinkles.&#;

She suggests consulting with your dermatologist about the best brand and formula for your skincare goals.

When and how to apply eye cream

You may choose to apply eye cream in the morning, at night or both:

• For the a.m. hours, try a lightweight eye cream that contains sunscreen to prevent future wrinkles.
• At night, choose a richer, more moisturizing, SPF-free formula.

If your skin is very sensitive, look for a fragrance-free eye cream.

To apply:

• Gently pat a pea-sized amount under your eyes with your ring finger (it&#;s the weakest finger and won&#;t apply too much pressure). Avoid pulling or tugging your skin.
• Resist the urge to pile on more product &#; too much cream can get into your eyes, causing irritation.
• Let it absorb for a minute or more before applying makeup.

The ingredient you should never put around your eyes

Retinol is a popular skincare ingredient for combatting facial wrinkles and reducing acne flare-ups, but it can irritate the delicate undereye area.

When eye cream isn&#;t enough

Eye creams can improve the quality of the skin around your eyes, but they can&#;t fix every undereye concern. If you aren&#;t satisfied with the results from regular eye cream use after a few months, your dermatologist may recommend an in-office procedure to tackle the issue.

&#;If you have deep hollows, heavy lids, or deep wrinkles, then other procedures may be needed,&#; she says. &#;Sometimes we will use fillers around the eye and there are some lasers that we can use on the eyelids.&#;

Note: Using fillers and lasers around the eye area is considered &#;off label,&#; meaning the FDA hasn&#;t yet approved these products for this type of use.

&#;We also work closely with our oculoplastics surgery colleagues when we think surgery is the most appropriate option,&#; Dr. Ganz says.

Need to make an appointment with a Piedmont physician? Save time, book online.

No one debates the importance of sunscreen and moisturizer is a must, but is eye cream really necessary? After all, eye creams tend to be expensive, and it's not always clear what they can offer that a typical moisturizer can't. To settle the debate on the necessity of eye cream, we tapped two board-certified dermatologists to answer all our eye-cream-related questions. From the difference between eye skin and the rest of the face to what an eye cream can treat, get their answers below.

Meet the Experts

• Dr. Marisa Garshick is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. She specializes in acne, eczema, psoriasis, skin cancer, vitiligo, wrinkles, and more.
• Dr. Azadeh Shirazi is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology. 

What Is Eye Cream?

Simply put, "an eye cream refers to a cream that is specifically formulated to be applied to the skin around the eyelid and target undereye concerns," explains dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick. While some of the ingredients in face cream may be similar, she adds, "they may be present in a lower concentration [in eye cream] to account for the delicate skin around the eyelid."

Eye Skin vs. Face Skin

While it's logical to think that skin is skin and it's all the same, the truth is, different areas of your face and body are covered with different types of, well, skin. "It's important to remember that the eyelid skin is thin and delicate and can also show signs of aging sooner than other areas of the face," says Garshick. To stave off wrinkles and crepiness, it's key to keep the skin around the eyelid moisturized and prevent dryness.

And because the eye area&#; both the lid and the under eye&#; is more delicate than the rest of your face, some moisturizers are better kept at a safe distance. Garshick names retinol and exfoliating acids as ingredients in face creams that can appear in concentrations that can be too harsh for the eye area. (But, when formulated specifically for the sensitive eye area, these ingredients can be more tolerable.)

Is Eye Cream Necessary?

"Eye cream is not necessary," says Dr. Garshick. "But individuals who have concerns related to the skin around the eye, including dark circles, puffiness, Crow's feet, fine lines, wrinkles, and volume loss, eye creams may be a helpful addition to improve the appearance of the undereye skin." "In some cases simply applying moisturizer to the skin around the eye may be sufficient, but if someone is dealing with specific concerns then incorporating ingredients such as retinol, peptides, and antioxidants may be helpful." 

Can You Use Face Cream Under Your Eyes?

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While you could just slather a heavy face cream under your eyes, you risk irritating the delicate under-eye area. Still, it's important to keep both skin types protected, and there are some face products that can (and should) be used under the eyes. Sunscreen is an example of a face cream that should be used around the eye. Dermatologist Dr. Azadeh Shirazi says that while some face creams may be tolerated by eyelid skin, it's wise to do a patch test, "trying a small amount applied to a small area daily for three to five days and monitoring for any unwanted reactions."

Can You Use Eye Cream All Over Your Face?

The short answer is yes, you can use an eye cream all over your face. After all, eye cream is essentially a moisturizer. However, as mentioned above, eye creams are formulated differently and specifically for the delicate eye area. Typically, the rest of the face would benefit from something more potent. Eye creams also tend to be much pricier and in smaller jars, so slathering one all over your face would be a bit wasteful (and more expensive). If you're in a pinch and don't have your face moisturizer with you, though, your eye cream can make a fine substitute.

Who Are Eye Creams For?

Garshick says that eye creams "may not be necessary for everyone," but she recommends it for those "who are concerned about their undereye area or who are noticing changes in the undereye area."

Can an Eye Cream Treat Dark Circles?

If dark circles are your main concern, Garshick recommends using an eye cream formula with niacinamide to help to brighten the undereye area. She also suggests antioxidants such as vitamin C, which brighten and help protect against free radical damage.

"Veins around the eyes can result in venous pooling of blood, creating a dark hue under the eyes that resemble dark circles. Ingredients such as arnica and vitamin K can help in reducing their appearance and their effects," adds Dr. Shirazi. Additionally, she warns that undereye bags and puffiness can cast a shadow&#;creating the illusion of dark circles. If you're experiencing swelling, it's best to target this first, rather than dark circles.

There are also some dark circles that exist because of your bone structure and the way that shadows hit your face&#; rather than actual darkness in the skin. So, an eye cream that has a slight tint or light-reflecting properties can make all the difference.

Can an Eye Cream Treat Wrinkles?

"Those with mature skin would benefit from eye creams with retinol to help boost collagen production and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles," says Garshick. Additionally, she says peptides and growth factors can help boost collagen production and improve the skin's firmness and overall texture.

Can an Eye Cream Treat Under-Eye Bags?

Both Garshick and Shirazi recommend caffeine-based eye creams and cold compresses to depuff the undereye area. If you don't have a spa's worth of chilled cucumbers on deck, Garshick suggests an eye cream with a metal applicator, which can create a cooling effect.

When Not to Use an Eye Cream

If you are experiencing volume loss due to aging, an eye cream may not be the most effective option. "It's important to set expectations for what an under-eye cream can achieve, as there are instances where botox, lasers, fillers, radiofrequency devices, microneedling, PRP, or surgical procedures may be needed,&#; Garshick says.

Shirazi explains that those with sensitive skin are typically intolerant of many ingredients that address dark circles, and says that eye creams can sometimes create more problems in the eye area. &#;Allergic reactions and irritation can cause thickening and darkening of the eyelid skin," she says. &#;Simply hydrating the skin improves the appearance around the eyelids.&#; She and Garshick both suggest opting for Vaseline to create a barrier and seal in any moisture. Garshick also recommends using hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which help draw moisture into the skin.

The Final Takeaway

Eye cream is an effective addition to your skincare routine, especially if you have specific under-eye issues that you're hoping to correct. But, if you're simply looking to hydrate the eye area and don't suffer from dark circles, puffiness, or wrinkles, you can absolutely use your go-to moisturizer. However, just be cautious not to apply possible irritants like retinol or exfoliating acids. On the other end of the spectrum, you can't expect an eye cream to treat everything. Some concerns may not be reversible, like volume loss, in which case an eye cream&#; or a face cream for that matter&#; just won't be enough.

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