The Oval Cut Diamond Guide

An oval cut diamond offers exceptional brilliance, durability, and an elegant aesthetic. For this diamond shape, we suggest opting for a color grade of H or better, and a clarity grade of SI1 or SI2. However, one must be cautious about the 'bowtie effect' often found in oval diamonds, which can lead to a dark area in the center of the diamond.

If you seek further information, please check out 8mm round diamond.

By following our guidelines presented in this piece, you can acquire the optimum oval cut diamond for your investment. For instance, a quality one-carat oval cut diamond can set you back around $3,200.

The appeal of oval cut diamonds, with their elongated and sophisticated design, has risen, thanks to personalities such as Blake Lively and Hailey Bieber. Combining the classic sparkle of a round diamond with a unique shape, oval diamonds often appear larger than their actual carat weight and tend to be more cost-effective than round diamonds. Their elongated design enhances the aesthetics of the fingers and gives a contemporary twist to traditional diamond cuts.

This guide will provide all the insights you need to find the perfect oval cut diamond that suits your desired style.

Gorgeous oval cut jewelry – all custom-made by Abe Mor

Topics Covered in This Guide:

Understanding Oval Cut Diamonds
Preferred Setting Styles for Oval Cut Diamonds
Important Cut Grades for Oval Diamonds
Explaining the Bowtie Effect in Oval Diamonds
Optimal Length-to-Width Ratio for Oval Diamonds
Recommended Clarity for Oval Cut Diamonds
Best Color Grades for Oval Cut Diamonds
Pricing of Oval Cut Diamonds
Oval Cut Diamond Size Chart
Comparing Round and Oval Cut Diamonds

Why Trust Us?

We rely on our deep expertise to assist you in the diamond buying journey. The article's author, our CEO Mike Fried, has over two decades of experience in the diamond industry. Starting from the ground up by sorting and evaluating countless diamonds, Mike gained intricate knowledge of diamond quality and value. He then progressed to buying and selling diamonds in the wholesale market, managing transactions worth tens of millions of dollars in diamonds to retailers.

Key Recommendations

An oval cut diamond offers remarkable brilliance, durability, and style. We recommend a color grade of H or better and a clarity grade of SI1 or SI2 for this diamond shape.

Unlike round diamonds, certifications for oval cuts do not indicate how the diamond will visually appear. For example, compare a stunning 0.70ct diamond from Blue Nile to a less impressive diamond of similar specifications. Therefore, we recommend a thorough evaluation of the diamond or a visual review by an expert before making a purchase. Refer to our diamond cut chart for general guidelines.

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The Oval Cut Diamond

Overflowing with sparkling brilliance, an oval cut diamond is truly unique. This "fancy" shape's elongated design makes it appear larger than diamonds of the same carat weight in other shapes. For instance, a 1ct oval cut diamond looks impressively large in a halo setting, more so than a 1 carat round diamond in a similar setting.

The oval diamond's slender form creates an elongated effect, making the hand and fingers appear more graceful. With no sharp edges, it is less prone to chipping.

If you prefer a rounded design but want a more distinctive stone, an oval diamond is a stunning option. Additionally, oval diamonds often come at a lower price than round brilliant diamonds.

A Glimpse into the History of Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval diamonds have been adored for centuries, with the earliest examples dating back to the 1300s. However, they were not specifically named in literature until the 1800s.

In the early 1960s, a Russian diamond cutter named Lazare Kaplan perfected the oval cut technique. Known for turning undesirable rough stones into stunning diamonds, Kaplan's method significantly enhanced the brilliance of the oval diamond. Today, diamond cutters employ Kaplan’s techniques to create oval cut diamonds, a shape that consistently remains among the most popular.

Ideal Settings for Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval cut diamonds are highly versatile, looking splendid in almost any setting. Taylor Lautner’s wife showcases this versatility with her oval pavé engagement ring and oval eternity wedding band.

The most suitable settings for oval cut diamonds typically feature four or six prongs, accentuating the diamond’s shape. Oval diamonds also look fantastic in bezel settings. Some engagement rings with three or five stones feature four or six prongs for the center diamond, plus a bezel setting to secure the side stones.

Style-wise, you can design an oval diamond ring with nearly any setting, from vintage to side stone styles. However, certain styles truly enhance the oval cut. We’ve highlighted the best settings below with engagement ring inspirations. When designing your ring, you can combine the oval cut with various other styles.

Halo settings: A halo of small diamonds enhances the radiance of an oval cut, adding character regardless of the carat weight.

Solitaire settings: The timeless and simple solitaire setting lets the oval cut take center stage. From yellow gold to rose gold, a solitaire ring remains perennially stylish.

Side-stone settings: Whether a three-stone ring or a setting with multiple stones, additional sparkle accentuates the elegance of the oval shape.

Pavé settings: Pavé rings add extra sparkle and character to any oval cut diamond, available in styles ranging from twisted bands to solitaire-style pavé rings.

Shop for oval cut diamond engagement rings here.

Oval Cut Diamond Center Stone in a White Gold Halo Setting

The Most Popular Diamond Shapes

Oval cuts have been gaining significant popularity in recent years, offering a blend of classic charm and a modern touch. While round diamonds still hold the number one spot, oval cuts are firmly in the top four. For those considering unique diamond shapes other than oval, visit our detailed page on different diamond shapes.

Diamond Shape Chart

Cut Quality in Oval Cut Diamonds

The cut quality of a diamond is crucial, impacting its structural integrity and overall beauty, as well as its brilliance and fire. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades the cut quality of certain shapes, like round brilliant cuts, but does not provide cut grading for oval diamonds.

“As with all fancies, buyers of ovals should look first at overall make. Look for shape and cut that are pleasing to the eye. The ends should be gracefully round, not flattened or too narrow.” Rapaport, Fancy Shape Series – Oval

Specific cut parameters for an excellent oval diamond are challenging to standardize due to its unique structure. There are no definitive guidelines for table percentage or depth percentage. All cut recommendations for oval diamonds are widely general and mostly subjective.

Ultimately, the beauty of an oval diamond is determined by what you and the intended wearer perceive. Review oval cut diamonds thoroughly to ensure you make a well-informed choice.

For an excellent cut oval diamond, adhere to our general guidelines below. Remember, these are broad suggestions and should be considered only after viewing the diamond and consulting an expert.

Optimal Cut Quality Parameters for Oval Cut Diamonds

 

Excellent

Very Good

Good

Fair

Poor

Table %

53-63

52 or 64-65

51 or 66-68

50 or 69-70

<50 or >70

Depth %

58-62

56-57.9 or 62.1-66

53-55.9 or 66.1-71

50-52.9 or 71.1-74

<50 or >74

Girdle

Very Thin – Slightly Thick

Very Thin – Thick

Very Thin – Very Thick

Extremely Thin – Extremely Thick

 

Culet

None

Very Small

Small

Medium

>Medium

Length/Width Ratio

1.35-1.50

1.30-1.34 or 1.51-1.55

1.25-1.29 or 1.56-1.60

1.20-1.24 or 1.61-1.65

>1.20 or <1.65

The Bowtie Effect in Oval Cut Diamonds

Due to their elegant and elongated shape, virtually all oval cut diamonds exhibit some degree of bowtie effect. The dark area stretching across the center of the diamond is known as the bowtie. The prominence of this effect varies from diamond to diamond: sometimes it is quite noticeable, and sometimes it is barely detectable.

A prominent bowtie can detract from the diamond's overall beauty. Thus, it's important to select an oval diamond with a less noticeable bowtie.

Below are examples illustrating the difference between a visible bowtie and a diamond with minimal bowtie effect.

Ideal Length-to-Width Ratio for Oval Cut Diamonds

A diamond's length to width ratio determines how proportionate it appears based on its intended shape (square or rectangular). To find the length-to-width ratio, divide the diamond's length by its width. For example, a diamond with a length of 5.5mm and a width of 3.5mm has a length-to-width ratio of 1.57.

While largely a matter of personal preference, oval diamonds generally look most appealing with a ratio between 1.30-1.50. Examine various oval diamonds to see which ratio you find most captivating. Viewing them in engagement ring settings can also help visualize their appearance.

Assessing Clarity in Oval Cut Diamonds

The GIA grades diamond clarity on a scale from best to worst:

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• IF

  – Internally Flawless

• VVS1

  – Very Very Small Inclusions 1

• VVS2

  – Very Very Small Inclusions 2

• VS1

  – Very Small Inclusions 1

• VS2

  – Very Small Inclusions 2

• SI1

  – Small Inclusions 1

• SI2

  – Small Inclusions 2

• I1

  – Inclusions 1

• I2

  – Inclusions 2

The shape of oval diamonds often obscures inclusions and blemishes. Imperfections near the rounded ends or where the setting will cover them are virtually invisible.

This is why we recommend SI1 or SI2 diamonds for excellent clarity and value. Higher clarity grades are available but offer minimal visible differences, making higher expenditures on cut or carat weight a better choice.

In addition to assessing the bowtie and clarity grade, you should personally review the oval diamond or consult an expert. Examine photos and only trust the vendor’s eye cleanliness check if they verify it themselves, as is done by James Allen. To better understand oval cut diamond clarity differences, contact us.

Choosing the Right Color for Oval Cut Diamonds

Color is rated by the GIA on a scale from D to Z, with D representing the most colorless diamonds and Z indicating a noticeable brown or yellow tint.

While generally difficult to distinguish between two color grades, the price difference can be substantial.

Since perceivable color differences are minor, we recommend focusing on how the diamond color looks to you.

1ct G VS2 Oval in White Gold Solitaire Setting

As a guideline, we suggest an H color or better for oval cut diamonds. This ensures the diamond appears white in white gold or platinum settings. For yellow or rose gold settings, you can consider dropping to a J or K color to save money or get a larger stone.

For an oval diamond that appears clear and maintains good pricing, consult our experts.

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Pricing of Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval cut diamonds are generally less expensive than round brilliant diamonds of similar cut quality, color, clarity, and carat weight. In our diamond shape and pricing guide, we found that oval cut diamonds are approximately 28% less expensive per carat than round cuts.

This cost-effectiveness stems from the oval cut utilizing more of the rough diamond, resulting in less wastage during cutting and polishing. Consequently, oval cuts offer better value for money on a per-carat basis.

The price per carat for oval diamonds rises dramatically with increased carat weight. Below, we’ve compared prices for popular diamond sizes (1 carat, 2 carat, 3 carat, and 4 carat) with H color, VS clarity, and excellent cut proportions.

Oval Diamond Size Chart

Oval cut diamonds, like all diamonds, are sold by carat weight rather than size. Use the chart below to convert a diamond’s carat weight into its length and width measurements.

Keep in mind that because each diamond’s length-to-width ratio can vary, the measurements provided are average values. If you choose a diamond with a longer or shorter length-to-width ratio, its measurements may differ. Select a length-to-width ratio in the 1.30-1.50 range for visually pleasing results.

Oval Cut Diamond Sizes (Carat Weight to Length/Width in MM)

Carat WeightSize in MM0.25ct5*3.5mm0.33 carat5.5*3.5mm0.35 carat5*4mm0.50 carat6*4mm0.60 carat6*5mm0.65 carat6.5*4.5mm0.75 carat7*5mm1.00 carat7.7*5.7mm1.25 carat8*6mm1.5 carat8.5*6.5mm2.00 carat9*7mm2.5 carat10*8mm2.88 carat10.5*8.5mm3 carat12*8mm4 carat12.9*8.6mm5 carat13.9*9.3mm6 carat14.5*10mm8.20 carat14.7*12mm8.75 carat15*12mm9.30 carat16*12mm11.88 carat16*14mm12.86 carat18*13mm14.96 carat20*15mm

To visualize further, here's a simple comparison to a US quarter:

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