The Best Seed Starting Trays For Beginner Gardeners

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Seed starting trays are one of the easiest ways to start vegetable, flower, and other plant seedlings indoors before the weather warms up. They come in a variety of sizes, with different features, and materials, but which ones are best?

Are some seed starting trays better then others and why? This is what I set out to find out this years growing season, in my quest to grow more of my own vegetables at home!

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Are Seed Starting Trays Absolutly Necessary?

In past years, I never really used seed starting trays and always went with a collection of mixed solo cups, old flower pots , yogurt containers, egg cartons, basically whatever I could find and put soil in! While all these containers do work, and can be a great way to garden on a budget, I never really found that much success with my mix and match approach.

The main problem with this approach is that it simply makes things harder to manage. The various containers all require different amounts of water to stay moist, they take up way more space, and you have to move each seedling individually should you want to move them out, under grow lights or into a new window sill.

In short, are seed starter trays necessary for the beginner gardener? No, not exactly, but they sure do make life a whole lot easier, and dramatically improve your chances of success!

Why would we recommend using seed starting trays?

Seed starter trays make life a whole lot easier by conveniently grouping seedlings into easy to manage trays.

• It is much easier to provide adequate lighting when all the seedlings are grouped closely together instead of being spaced out in various size containers. The trays easily fit under grow lights, and can easily be moved around as a group.
• As the seed tray cells are all a uniform size, it is much easier to water, and stay on top of the moistures requirements of the various seedlings. As the seed trays all contain proper drainage, they also help prevent over watering the seedlings.
• It is much easier to plant similar types of plants in their own trays, for example herbs in one, lettuces in another, etc. This helps when needing to harden off or transplant certain seedlings before others.
• Some seed trays even come with clear plastic covers or domes, which help regulate moisture, especially in the beginning phases of germination and growth.

Different Seed Starting Tray Materials and Designs

Most often seed starting trays are made of rigid plastic and are reusable, or are made of super thin recyclable plastic that is meant to be thrown away after using. Some are a combo of plastic drip tray with bio-degradable cells or peat pellets that can later be planted right into the garden.

There are a wide range of designs to choose from, and it can be overwhelming, especially for new gardeners.

Which you'll end up choosing depends on several factors and we'll go over some of the most common designs in this guide to help you decide what will work best for you.

Seed Tray Sizes

Most seed starter trays come in a 10" x 20" size, but differ in the amount of 'cells' or individual plants that can be planted in the tray.

The more cells a tray has, the shorter the time frame before the seedlings out grow the tray and need to be planted out or transplanted into larger containers.

Tray sizes range from 12 cell trays - 128 cell trays! In my experience, tray sizes between 24 cells and 48 cells work best and will safely keep your plants indoors for 4 to 8 weeks before needing to be transplanted.

• Trays with a high number of cells (and thus a shorter growth time indoors) work especially well for lettuces such as spinach, kale, and head lettuces, which can be transplanted out into the garden sooner, either under hoop tunnels or in cold frames, then other plants.
• Trays with a smaller number of cells (for example 24 - 36 cells per tray) are ideal for plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, herbs, and squashes.

Root vegetables, should when possible always be planted directly in the garden and not transplanted.

If you see roots coming out of the cells or peat pellet inserts, it's time to transplant the seedlings into a larger container or into the garden.

Bio-degradable inserts vs plastic cell trays

Which style of seed starter tray you choose is ultimately up to you.

Bio-degradable cell inserts are great, and make transplanting easy as the entire 'cell' is simply transplanted directly into a larger container or into the garden, and the tray material bio-degrades. They do need to be replaced yearly though and have a tendency to develop mold easier then plastic cell trays do.

Plastic seed starter trays are mostly re-usable, especially the more rigid plastic celled trays. The seedlings can be slightly harder to remove from the trays at transplanting time though, and you may need to use a butter knife, or spoon handle to help loosens the sides of the individual cells.

Never pull on the seedling stems to try and remove the cell from the tray as you will most probably damage the plant!

Additional accessories for your seed trays

Consider these accessories when starting and growing seedlings indoors. They make life a whole lot easier, and increase your chances of success! If you have to pick just one of them, I will always recommend grow lights be the first upgrade to your indoor seedlings!

• LED Grow Lights- specially designed lights to provide the proper amount of lights seedlings require to prevent growth issues.
• Heat Mats- help by keeping soil temperatures consistently warm, speeding up and aiding in germination rates.
• Base Trays- provide drainage for trays with drainage holes, and allow you to water your seedlings from below. Tis can help prevent disease and pest problems!
• Clear Dome Lid- Help keep heat and moisture in the seed tray. Especially important when waiting for seeds to germinate. A great and cheap investment when heat mats are not possible.

The Best Seed Starting Trays For Beginner Gardeners

In our quest to discover which seed trays work best for our vegetable garden needs, we purchased and trialed three of the most commonly available styles of seed starting trays. Biodegradable cell inserts on a plastic base tray, peat pellet inserts with a base tray, and a rigid plastic celled tray with a base for watering.

Jiffy Professional Greenhouse 72-Cell Starter kit

Review:

A great seed starting tray for beginners, just add water and the peat pellets expand. No need for extra potting soil, or filling pots. Seeds sprout quickly and the clear heat dome helps retain moisture, reducing the need to water as often. Downside to this size tray is the short growing time before the seedlings need to be moved to larger pots or transplanted into the garden. Plan accordingly. Perfect for lettuces or plants that can be transplanted within a week or two of germination.

Pros:

• Easy to plant peat pellets
• Comes with clear lid to retain moisture
• Comes with base tray for easy watering
• No need to purchase potting soil

Cons:

• Seedlings quickly outgrow the peat pellets
• pellets need to be replaced after each use

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32 Cell Peat Pot Strips

Review:

Large peat pots provide enough space for plants to grow for 6 to 8 weeks. Perfect for tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, or squash seedlings. Base tray allows for easy watering, though care must be taken not to overwater to prevent mold growth. We found cutting the strips apart before planting made transplanting easier, with less disturbance to the plants. A great, easy to use tray for most plants.

Pros:

• Bio-degradable inserts make planting and transplanting easy
• Larger cell size allows for seedlings to stay indoors longer nd develop healthy root systems
• Comes with base tray for easy watering
• Allows for longer growth time before transplanting

Cons:

• Inserts need to be replaced yearly
• Requires a solid watering tray (sold separately)
• Requires potting soil to fill.

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Re-Useable 72 Cell Plug Tray

Review:

The re-useable nature of this seed tray requires only adding new potting soil before each use. The deep 1.8 inch plugs allow for more root development despite the high cell count. We found the seedlings to easily grow for up to 4-6 weeks before requiring transplanting. Perfect for herbs, peppers, lettuces etc. Plugs are harder to remove at transplant time though and require loosening of the sides with a spoon or popsicle stick, increasing the chances of damaging roots.

Pros:

• Entire plastic tray is reusable
• Each cell has dedicated drainage hole
• Deep 1.8" cells allow for more root development.

Cons:

• requires base tray for drainage
• seedlings are harder to remove then with bio-degradable inserts or pellets

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Summary

Over all we found that all three styles of seed starting trays had their own pros and cons making them great for different things. With all trays we tried, we found planting 2-3 seeds per cell and then trimming back to just one seedling after sprouting to give the best results.

The small Jiffy peat plugs where great for starting lettuces, herbs, and brassicas that can be transplanted out sooner even in cool weather. Tomatoes and cucumbers struggled in these peat plugs due to the limited growing space for the roots and required transplanting into larger pots fairly quickly.

The larger 32 peat pots where wonderful for plants that require more time to establish before being planted out. Tomatoes, cucumbers, herbs, and squashes all did well in this tray for up to 8 weeks. The only downside was the need to separate and space out some of the plants once they grew so large they where shading the other seedlings.

The re-useable 72 cell tray with 2 inch plugs worked surprisingly well, even for our larger plants, such as tomatoes and peppers. The deeper cell plugs allowed the plants to stay in the trays longer then expected. Removing the plugs without damaging the roots was a bit of a challenge though and took some getting the hang of.

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Starting Seeds Indoors for Your Garden

Although growing a garden with store-bought transplants is fine, it does not offer you the cost savings, variety of choices, or control that starting your own seeds indoors does. 

Many garden supply stores only offer a few types of tomatoes or peppers yearly, even though hundreds of varieties are available. Learning to start your own transplants from seed each year means that you can grow different types chosen for their beautiful colors, unique flavors, and suitability to your precise growing zone. 

SOWING AND GERMINATING SEEDS FROM SEED PACKETS

Starting your own seeds from packets also gives you control over timing. Allowing you to be ready to plant your gorgeous starts outside as soon as the weather permits and not wait until they are available at your local nursery. 

Most vegetables and flowers can be started indoors in cell trays or small pots for later transplant into your garden. We have compiled a list of everything you need before you gather your seed packets and start seeds indoors. These gardening tips will get you and your plants off to a great start. 

 TOP 10 SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR STARTING SEEDS INDOORS

Check out the Ultimate Backyard Gardener Bundle to get everything you need in one package or for smaller plantings the 1010 Seed Starting Kit.

HOW TO PLANT INTO CELL TRAYS

FOR LARGE SEEDS LIKE PEAS, BEANS AND SQUASH.

Fill your cell trays halfway with potting soil. Take another cell tray and stack it on top of the cell tray you are planting into. This will pack down the dirt and create divots to sow seeds into. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell and fill the tray with potting soil.

FOR SMALL SEEDS LIKE LETTUCE, BRASSICAS AND TOMATOES.

Fill your cell trays with potting soil to the top. Take another cell tray and stack it on top of the cell tray you are planting into. This will pack down the dirt and create little divots to sow seeds into. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell and cover with soil around one to two times the depth of the longest side of the seed. This means that for a seed that is ¼ of an inch long, you will cover it with ¼ to ½ inches of soil. 

FOR ALL PLANTED SEEDS. 

Water your newly planted seeds liberally but gently. We recommend using a spray bottle or mister. Cover your tray with a humidity dome and place it on your shelf or a heat mat if using one. The humidity dome will maintain the perfect conditions for your seeds to germinate. Be sure to label your seedlings!

GERMINATING SEEDS WITH A HUMIDITY DOME

Once you have planted your seeds into your cell trays, it is wise to cover them with a humidity dome to maintain the best conditions for your seeds during germination. Humidity domes increase germination success when used correctly. 

Keep the humidity dome on the newly seeded tray until the first sign of germination. After that, remove the dome and set the tray under the lights. It is essential to remove the humidity dome at the first sign of germination, as mold can occur. Once under the lights, seedlings will need airflow and water.

HOW DO YOU KEEP SEEDLINGS WARM?

Seedlings should be grown in a closed environment that is at least 60℉. The soil temperature needs to be in the range between 65℉ and 80℉, depending on the variety. Frost-tolerant plants like broccoli will do fine in the low end of this range, while tomatoes and peppers will germinate and grow much better above 75℉

Both grow lights and heat mats help maintain temperatures in this optimal range. Use a heat mat with a thermostat and temperature controller for best results. Check out this article for information on how to use a heat mat for seed starting.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR SEEDS TO SPROUT INDOORS?

Typically, vegetable seeds sprout in 3-4 days under the right conditions. Some fruits, flowers, and herbs can take 14 days or longer to germinate. Consider pre-soaking your seeds for faster germination to speed up the process. Germination rates can slow substantially if you germinate seeds in cooler soil temperatures. For best results, use supplemental heating like a heat mat, and keep the humidity levels consistent by using a humidity dome for the highest germination rates.

WHAT DO I DO AFTER MY SEEDS GERMINATE?

After your seeds sprout, remove your humidity dome and place directly under grow lights. Keep the soil moist but not saturated until you are ready to harden off your seedlings. Bottom watering is the best method to keep seedlings healthy. 

DO YOU NEED A GROW LIGHT TO START SEEDS INDOORS?

Setting up an ideal seedling growing area does not need to be expensive. Direct lighting for your growing seedlings is recommended for 14-16 hours daily. This can be done with a simple led light hung around 6 inches above the seed tray. A baker's rack works very well for this.

The three most important things a seedling needs are proper airflow, adequate light, and a consistent temperature range between 65℉ and 80℉. You can obtain all of these conditions with the appropriate equipment regardless of where you are growing. 

WHEN TO TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS FROM A CELL TRAY?

Typically, your seeds will stay in their seed tray for 4-6 weeks. After this period, you will either need to transplant the new seedlings into larger pots or transplant them outside. Check your seed instructions and pay attention to your frost dates before transplanting young plants outside. 

A developed root system needs to be in place before successful transplanting of young plants can happen. Another thing to look for is the development of the "true" leaves. Check out When to Transplant Seedlings for more information on when to move your seedlings out of the cell trays.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS TOO EARLY?

Transplanting seedlings too early can mean you are putting weak seedlings at risk of getting hit with a late-season frost. Always consider your growing zone, and if in doubt, hold back your seedlings a bit longer.

HARDENING OFF SEEDLINGS

WHAT DOES HARDENING OFF YOUR SEEDLINGS MEAN?

Before transplanting your seedlings, exposing them to the conditions they will have to survive outdoors is essential. This is called hardening off. Hardening off your transplants will help to prevent transplant shock. Expose your baby plants to outside conditions for about a week before planting. For more information on planting young seedlings, check out Transplanting Essentials.

5 EASY STEPS TO HARDEN OFF YOUR SEEDLINGS BEFORE TRANSPLANTING.

Proper hardening off takes from 7-10 days. These easy steps will help you get it right. 

1. Place your tray of seedlings outside in an area protected from intense wind and direct sunlight for 2 to 3 hours a day for three days. Remember to bring them back inside at night.

2. For the next 3 to 4 days, place the seedlings outside in the mornings and bring them back in at night. Heat-loving crops can be in direct sun for this step, but cooler-season crops should still have at least midday shade. 

3. For 1 to 2 days before planting, leave your trays in their protected space outside overnight.

4. Stop watering your seedlings 18-24 hours before you plan to plant them. (This makes it easier to remove them from the trays.)

5. Plant out your seedlings and water well. If a late frost is predicted, you can always

   cover your new plants

   with a

   frost blanket

   to protect them while they get established.

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TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS OUTDOORS

After hardening off your seedlings, it is time to plant. Take care to water your seedlings after planting them. Some use plug poppers or widger dibbers to remove plugs from cell trays. You will find what works best for you. Start growing directly into your garden space, paying particular attention to air pockets in the soil. If you are using landscape fabric, you will want to install that beforehand. 

Plant the plug into the soil until the plug shape is not visible, leaving no gaps. Water in the transplant and continue to water often as the roots establish themselves. Always plant during cooler times of the day. It is best to plant in the early morning or evening to prevent sun damage to the root systems. Another option is to wait for a cloudy day to plant, giving you and your new baby plants a little respite from direct sun.  

After transplanting, covering the rows while your seedlings are at their most vulnerable stage is a good idea. Check out the Ultimate Guide to Ground Covers on the Farm for more information on how to protect your growing space.

PROTECTING SEEDLINGS

Those newly planted seedlings must be protected from wind, insects, and birds. Insect netting is an excellent tool for this. Not only does insect netting create a barrier around the plants, but it also cuts down on diseases caused by insect infestations. Frost blanket can also be used to protect seedlings and plants if late frosts are predicted in your area or just to give them and extra bit of heat overnight. 

Shade cloth or netting is another option to consider when looking for protection for your new transplants. Shade cloth not only protects your plants from sunburn but also helps them to utilize UV rays better. The shade cloth's reflective coating helps diffuse the light into a more usable form for plants, improving their growth and health overall. Shade cloth also helps to lower ambient temperatures inside the tunnel, helping lower the stress for the plants.

Beneficial insects are also an excellent way to protect your seedlings. Using beneficial bugs helps keep pest numbers at a manageable level without risking the lives of pollinators by using chemicals. Read The Importance of Beneficial Insects to learn more about beneficial insects and how to use them.

HOW DO YOU CREATE A GARDENING PLAN?

Before starting your seed packets, let's talk about creating an overall plan for your garden. Creating a gardening plan can save you a ton of time in the long run. Plotting the area on paper can help you plan in the most straightforward way to manage and harvest. 

Make sure that you locate spacing requirements for the plants you are growing. 

Along with spacing, it is also an excellent time to consider planting your taller crops in the northern area of your plot and planting smaller plants closer to the southern region of your gardening plot. This will help to prevent shading that could be detrimental to your crops.

For tiny seeds you have saved yourself or any for which the packet does not provide plant spacing, it is a good general rule that smaller vegetables be placed 4-6 inches apart while larger crops like broccoli or Brussels sprouts need 12-18 inches to spread their leaves.  

Planning Garden Infrastructure 

Once your garden is plotted out on paper, decide whether you want to use raised beds or garden rows instead. Raised beds take a bit of work but improve drainage and accessibility to the plants. Another option, if you are not interested in building a raised bed, is to grow in large grow bags. This is also an excellent option for a rooftop garden or in areas with inadequate or poor soil.

When planning the row spacing, account for a three-foot pathway. This leaves enough room next to each of the rows for weeding and harvesting. Planting the rows too densely can prevent weed management, leading to smaller yields.  

When growing vining vegetables like melons, cucumbers, indeterminate tomatoes, or squash, the spacing should be increased to plan for sprawl or spacing for a trellis structure. Read Building Trellis for Indeterminate Tomatoes for more information on the process and when to use roller hooks for tomatoes. You can also use melon cradles to support heavier fruits if you are trellising. 

HOW DO YOU CHOOSE SEEDS FOR PLANTING?

Choosing which seeds to grow can seem overwhelming for the first-time grower. It is imperative to consider a few things when picking out seed varieties. What vegetables do well in your area, and what do you and your family want to eat?

Locate your growing zone and use that as your guide when browsing seed companies to pick the best fit. Next, consider what will sell in your area or what vegetables you and your family enjoy.

The last thing to consider is your skill level. If this is your first garden, focus on easier-to-grow crops to start. We recommend squash, lettuce, tomatoes, collard greens, bush beans, peppers, and melons. Pick varieties that are labeled as disease-resistant when possible. Once you've picked your crops, get them on paper and start a garden plan.

WHAT IF I HAVE LEFTOVER SEEDS FROM LAST YEAR?

Most seed packets will have a date somewhere on the label, such as “Packed for 2024.” If your seeds are only a year old, go ahead and try planting them. Most seeds are good for one to two years. After that, the germination rate will decline sharply. If you have older seeds you wish to use, it is a good idea to do a germination test before planting.  

HOW TO DO A GERMINATION TEST FOR SEEDS

• Place 5-10 seeds on a moist paper towel

• Keep the paper moist by placing it in a zip-top bag.

• Check the seeds daily, starting at three days and continuing for up to 14 days.

• Count the number of seeds that sprout and multiply by 20 for five seeds or by 10 for ten seeds. IE. 7 out of 10 seeds germinated you have a germination rate of 70%.

• Plant as you usually would, accounting for the germination rate. IE. if your germination rate is 70% you should plant at least five seeds if you want three plants to transplant.

WHEN SHOULD I START PLANTING SEEDS?

After mapping out your garden, determine when the last frost date is in your area and subtract 6-8 weeks from that date. Knowing this date, you can nail down the best timeframe to plant. Planning this will ensure that the seedlings have enough time to develop before the transplant date. 

Now that you have your timeframe for planting, it is good to look into different ways to start seeds indoors. Seeds can be propagated in cell trays, soil block trays, or even just in small containers. Many find the cell trays a very advantageous way to grow more starts in a smaller area.

Finding the right size is essential if you want to plant into cell trays. Cell tray sizes vary to work with different crops and growth rates. Faster-growing crops need larger celled trays that can hold more potting soil to keep growing seedlings longer. While slower growing plants like herbs can be started in smaller cells. For help choosing the right sized cell tray for planting, check out this guide on Selecting the Right Cell Tray. 

 

WHAT HELPS SEEDS GROW?

In the beginning stage of the growth of your seeds, you will need to ensure that the seed stays moist and is in the correct temperature range. A heat mat with a thermostat used with a humidity dome helps ensure the sown seeds remain in the optimal temperature and humidity range. Once the seeds germinate, thin out the competing sprouts so there is only one or two in each cell plug or pot. A basic fertilizer such as worm compost tea or a seaweed/fish fertilizer at the 2-3 week point will boost your seedlings. Take care to provide your seedlings with ample light (around 14 hrs/day) that is pretty close. 

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU PLANT SEEDS TOO EARLY?

Seeds planted too early may require the grower to pot up or transplant into a larger pot or grow bag until it is safe to bring them outdoors. For some in growing zones with a shorter season, this is a regular practice for plants such as peppers, tomatoes, and many flowers to spend a few weeks in a larger container before going outdoors. 

WHAT IS THE BEST SOIL MIX FOR STARTING SEEDS?

Choose a good potting quality potting soil with these key features:

1. Good drainage

2. PH between 5-6.5

3. Moisture retention

4. Allows for airflow

5. Light to no fertilizer

Some key ingredients to look for in seed-starting soil are perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, coconut coir, compost, and a basic fertilizer or ground limestone. Learn more about growing mediums in this helpful article.

HOW MOIST SHOULD SOIL BE FOR SEEDLINGS?

The seed starting mix that you use should be slightly wet but not dripping, like a wrung-out sponge. It should hold well together when pressed firmly into your cell tray or pot but not so saturated that it will not hold any air for the seeds to germinate. Overwatering will cause an anaerobic environment that will lead to die-off and rot.

GROWING YOUR OWN TRANSPLANTS FOR GARDENING SUCCESS

Starting your own garden from seed is intensely rewarding. Not only will you have plants ready to go into the garden when you are ready, but you won’t rely on your local garden center or nursery to grow your food. 

The wide variety of interesting flavors, colors and textures of vegetables and fruits available to you when starting your own is astounding. Your hottest of hot ghost peppers or habaneros will amaze your tastebuds. Having red, purple, green, orange, and even black tomatoes will liven up any plate. You will be able to find early lettuces and late pumpkins to extend your growing season. 

Starting your own seeds from scratch also means you can save the best of your garden every year to grow again. In this way you will create your own seed stock specially adapted for your microclimate. 

*HERE ARE SOME GROWING ZONE GUIDES:

Last Spring Freeze Map from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

USDA Plant Hardiness Zones

First and Last Frost Dates by Zip Code

FAQ ABOUT STARTING SEEDS

WHY START SEEDS INDOORS INSTEAD OF BUYING TRANSPLANTS?

Starting seeds indoors from a seed packet is much less expensive than buying plants at the nursery. It is also a way to give you control over what nutrients and pesticides are used in the rearing of your plant. 

DO I NEED TO SOAK MY SEEDS BEFORE I PLANT THEM?

Larger seeds often do benefit from soaking before planting. We recommend following these simple steps when soaking seeds of any kind. 

1. Pre-rinse your seeds before leaving them to soak—the more debris and bacteria you  remove from the seeds before soaking the better. We recommend using filtered water for this process. 

2. After thoroughly soaking the seeds for a few hours, drain the water and do a short soak in diluted H2O2. A concentration of around 2%-3% for 5 minutes should do the trick. 

3. Rinse your sterilized seeds thoroughly.

Plant the seeds as you normally would at a depth one to two times the size of the seed. Learn more about disinfecting seeds in this helpful article.

H202 Diluted Solution Recipe (35% diluted to 3%)

• 1 part 35% Food Grade H202

• 11 parts H20

SHOULD I COVER THE SEEDS WITH PLASTIC WRAP?

It is possible to protect your germinating seeds by covering them with plastic wrap. While this will help keep some soil heat in, it will not protect your seedlings from pests very effectively and can only be used once before discarding. Instead, we recommend investing in a reusable humidity dome.

HOW DO I STRATIFY SEEDS?

Stratification of seeds is any process designed to mimic the natural conditions needed to break the seed’s dormancy.  Cold stratification, soaking of seeds and scarification are three main methods of stratifying seeds that are used for planting at home. The fourth method of heat stratification is only used for seeds that need to be exposed to high temperatures before germination to simulate a wildfire. 

HOW CAN I USE COLD STRATIFICATION WHEN STARTING SEEDS?

Many perennials and flowers require a cold stratification process before germinating. We recommend doing this in moistened, fine-grade sand in an airtight container, stored in the fridge for 1-4 months. You will want to check them weekly, and lightly spritz the sand and seal in the moisture. Roses are a common flower seed that requires this type of stratification process. 

HOW TO SCARIFY SEEDS

One of the most common seeds that benefit from scarification is butterfly peas. The process is straightforward: use a knife to nick the seed or rub it on fine-grade sandpaper. This helps to break the seed's outer coating to allow water to penetrate more easily. The process mimics what would naturally occur when an animal sends the seeds through their digestive system. This scarification ensures that you will get better results, as some of the seeds that require this have coatings that are hard for water to penetrate without the process.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU WATER SEEDLINGS?

Check the moisture levels on your seedlings daily. We believe the best method of watering seedlings is to bottom water them using 1020 trays. This method allows for the soil to wick the moisture from the bottom. Bottom-watering is not only time-saving, but it prevents any damage to newly emerged seedlings. If you prefer to topwater, find a fine mist spray bottle to keep from damaging leaves. Check out the Easiest Way to Water Your Seedlings for suggestions on watering newly germinated seeds.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HARDEN OFF SEEDLINGS?

Allow at least a week to harden off seedlings. You will do this gradually to avoid shocking the seedlings. Start by setting your seedlings outdoors during the daytime only for a few days. Slowly build up to leaving them outdoors full-time. Avoid leaving young plants in direct sunlight in their containers unless you can keep an eye on them all day to avoid having them dry out in a heatwave. 

Place them in an area with plenty of shade to prevent “frying” your delicate plant starts if you are gone for extended periods or during the hottest part of the day. You will also want to keep them protected from the wind. 

WHAT TIME OF DAY SHOULD I TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS OUTDOORS?

It is best to transplant young seedlings early in the morning. You want to avoid direct sun hitting the fragile root systems of these new seedlings, so avoid afternoon transplants. 

What is companion planting in the garden?

Companion planting in the garden is the practice of planting certain plants together to improve their success. Finding plants that grow well together this way is called companion planting. Planting herbs next to strawberries or garlic near your fruit trees can yield benefits for both plants. 

An excellent example of this is corn, beans, and squash. Planting these three vegetables together, "The Three Sisters" is a perfect example of companion planting and a traditional method used by many Native American tribes. Squash fills in the ground cover area, shades the soil and helps stabilize the corn plant. The corn acts as a pole for the beans to climb, while the beans fix nitrogen into the soil to help the squash and corn thrive. 

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