10 Things to Consider When Buying floating chuck

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Post by pete » Fri Oct 09, 2020 8:51 pm

I've no idea if any of this might help, but at 10ths levels of expected and required accuracy EVERTHING is going to count RSG. With batch production of parts like your doing it might work ok or for awhile. But is it going to be something that can be repeated each and every time? Everything I've read so far usually indicates few to maybe no lathes including high end brand new ones will maintain there tail stock alignments to the head stock C/L over the full length of an unworn lathe bed to low 10ths. Even the worlds best lathes are purposely misaligned on both the head stock and tail stock. It's not much, about .001" over roughly 10"-12" high and the same amount towards the operator for both the head and tail stock. That's done on purpose to help compensate for expected work piece weight and cutting tool pressures. With your now used off shore machine it's exact alignments could and probably are just about anything but straight. Maybe there's the odd one that by luck get made and might or do have low 10ths run out, but even Albrecht chucks aren't guaranteed to have less than about .0015" run out, and that's going to vary where it points the reamer depending on the orientation it's morse taper is inserted into the tail stocks taper each time. My Albrecht showed about .001" when I bought it. No doubt that's an extremely low tolerance reamer your friend custom ground for you, but even it will have at least some measurable run out. How much tension you use on the tail stocks locking lever also seems to be important since some of the better? designated Grizzly gun smithing lathes have the ability to use a torque wrench while locking them down. I seem to recall Weiler? lathes and maybe a few other tool room lathes also have that from the factory. So in my opinion there's already more than enough built in inaccuracy's in our lathes to make some kind of floating reamer holder probably worth while just to gain a bit more consistency.

Drilling to me is only a roughing operation if the parts require any level of precision. We all know that a drill just removes most of the initial material out of the way so better and higher precision methods can be used. For what your doing I'd be single point boring under size for that reamer to ensure the hole is actually straight, round and has the recommended material left for reaming since that costly reamer is still going to pretty much follow what's already there for straightness. And any drilled hole with the tail stock is going to be a combination of a bit of luck, material consistency and what your lathes alignments happen to be.But I'd also agree, that boring to a finished exact size is a whole lot more hit/miss and time consuming. That's why reamers were invented as a final sizing tool in the first place. From everything I've picked up through the PM forums, even the cutting lube used can have a measurable effect on a reamed holes finished size. No idea if it works on aluminum, but I stole the idea from one of the Guy Lautard Machinist Bedside Reader books. He recommended loading the reamer flutes with pure baking lard as a cutting lube. The few non scientific tests I tried with it seemed to measure as best I could check to about a 10th or two smaller verses using Reltons Rapid Tap as a cutting lube on mild and stainless steel. It also gave a far better surface finish, almost glass smooth on 303 stainless. Without me testing that lard with aluminum then your on your own about trying it, my guess is probably can't or doesn't return the same results with aluminum. But it's easy enough to try it on a test piece. I also have no idea if it would affect your anodizing process.

If anyone would be picky about what floating reamer holder there using it would be precision gun smiths, so the gunsmithing forums seem to be loaded with posts about which floating reamer holder works the best. There's also more than enough conflicting statements and arguments to make it highly confusing about what does or doesn't seem to work. I've so far not found any shop made design for a FRH that most of those amature and pro gun smiths will agree works well enough to use. I'm sure some can and do work just fine, but it seems almost impossible to nail down which one it might be. Fwiw as John already mentioned some of those better gun smiths do seem to favor the commercially produced Scully-Jones. I dunno, ymmv. Reaming seems to be one of those black arts subjects where almost everybody has a different opinion about what works.

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