10 Questions You Should to Know about PTO Shaft Components

The appropriate PTO shaft is essential for ensuring a smooth and seamless transfer of power between a tractor and an attached implement or machine. Size is a crucial consideration when choosing a shaft, as is the PTO driveline series.

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If you make a mistake or measure incorrectly, you will likely cause damage to the shaft, tractor or implement — or all three. Furthermore, you may need to replace the PTO shaft tubing, U-joints, yokes or other shaft components.

If you’re in the market for PTO shafts or parts, you’ll find no shortage of options. Finding the right PTO shaft for your equipment can be challenging with so many choices, but PaulB Parts makes finding the right PTO shaft easy. This article offers advice on choosing proper PTO parts that will work with your equipment. We also provide extensive resources so you can determine what you need and offer the guided support of our knowledgeable staff.

PTO Shaft Selection Tips

Determining the correct PTO shaft that will function properly with your tractor is crucial to the maintenance and effectiveness of your equipment. Follow this advice to find just what you need the first time.

1. Determine if Your Driveline is North American

The first step in deciding which PTO driveline you need is figuring out if your PTO is North American or metric. You can easily determine this by the shape of your driveline’s tubing. Look at the shape of the tubing on your driveline. North American PTO drivelines are typically one of four shapes: square, round, rectangle, or splined.

On the other hand, a driveline shaped like a lemon, star, or with three lobes is likely metric. Specifically, lemon and star profiles typically belong to a German series PTO shaft. A tri-lobe profile indicates it is an Italian series shaft.

2. Take Appropriate Measurements

Next, take two measurements from the U-joint that is on the tractor or the drive end of the PTO:

• Measure the bearing cap diameter: Most U-joints have uniform cap diameters. Cap diameters can differ among Constant Velocity drivelines. For best practice and further accuracy, measure all caps.

• Measure the cross-kit width, cap to cap length: You will also need to measure the U-joint from the end of the cap to the end of the cap. To get the most accurate reading and increase your likelihood of finding the right PTO shaft, remove the cross-kit from the yokes before measuring.

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Keep in mind the fact that some series are not uniform in width. Measuring the cross kit both ways is the best practice to ensure accuracy.

3. Look at Your Existing Equipment for Specifications

Locate the snap ring. If it’s in the bushing, it’s an internal snap ring. If not, it’s likely in the yoke ears and is an external snap ring. Note the bearing diameter, cap-to-cap overall length and snap ring type. It’s also important to know the amount of torque and horsepower needed to move through your PTO shaft. Male and female parts should have at least 6 inches overlap for torque load. Check the owner’s manual if you are unsure.

One of the key factors in getting quality equipment is knowing how to take care of your existing equipment. When your equipment is not in use and is stored outside, take the PTO shaft off the machine, tractor or mower and keep it inside to avoid rust-causing moisture and prolong the life of your driveline.

Get a PTO Shaft that Works with Your Tractor

You need to consider several factors when purchasing a PTO shaft, and after you buy, you may find that you need to make a few adjustments so the shaft is the perfect size for your tractor. For example, you may need to cut your driveline to the proper length for operational overlap. If you raise your implement to get the shaft on, you could end up damaging your equipment. You should have an overlap of at least one-third between the shaft and tube. With a slip-sleeve, there will be about 3 inches of overlap.

If you need to shorten the shaft, check out our tips on cutting your shaft to size. We want to make this process easy for you by providing online resources and offering access to our team’s experienced knowledge by so you feel confident in the parts you buy. PaulB Hardware can help you find the PTO driveline you need! Browse our selection of PTO shaft drivelines online to find all the parts you need.

Research PTO Shaft Details Before Making the Final Purchase

PaulB Hardware provides a variety of resources to make your shopping experience more effective. We offer videos, articles and diagrams to help you understand the details of the parts you are purchasing. Our website has content that will help you with the following:

• Figure out the proper PTO series: We offer a thorough step-by-step process for determining your PTO Series through careful measurements. We’ve even included a handy tool to make the sizing process even easier!

• Taking apart a universal joint replacement: PaulB Hardware provides a comprehensive guide that tells you how to take apart a universal joint replacement, complete with pictures and detailed captions.

Are you interested in learning more about Cardan Shaft Parts? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Author Fantrum
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Joined: 02 Feb
Location: Missouri
Points: 240 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Topic: Dumb question regarding PTO shafts and category...
    Posted: 28 Apr at 1:48am Okay, I admit it. This is a stupid question.. But I cannot find a good answer on the internet. Please forgive me.

I have my 190XT with category II 3-point hitch. I realize (unless I'm wrong) that on many implements I can swap out the lift pins to make them category II as well. However, what about the PTO shaft? Are there differences? For example, a tiller that is cat I. Could I swap lift pins to make it cat II and have the PTO shaft function properly still?I'm pretty ignorant on swapping categories, so forgive me. Sponsored Links DiyDave
Orange Level Access



Joined: 11 Sep
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 4:36am I don't think there is any difference in PTO, as long as its 540... and the correct length. Now hooking an 80 HP tractor to a 40 HP gearbox may have some consequences, though.  Make sure that the drive line has a clutch or shear bolt, to protect the tiller... Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! jaybmiller
Orange Level Access



Joined: 12 Sep
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 5:40am You don't modify the tiller pins ! You buy a couple 'Cat1 -Cat2 ' bushings, that slide onto the tiller's Cat1 pins then hookup to the 3PH, CAT2 liftarms.The PTO will be 'universal'..as long as it's 540 and 1 3/8", 6 spline unit.Early tractors (Ford 9N,2N..maybe the 'B' ?) had smaller diameter PTO shafts ( 1 1/8" ?). They didn't have a lot of HP, so didn't need the bigger diameter shaft. Since then the industry standardized on ONE size-fit-all. Course there's another 'standard' for the (?) RPM PTOs.....Odds are real good, you've got enough HP to turn a 6' tiller. My D-14 can spin a 5' unit all day long.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water PaulB
Orange Level



Joined: 12 Sep
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 5:55am The problem of just swapping Cat-II pins or adding the bushings to a Cat-I implement and hooking it to a Cat-II tractor is; The Cat-I is 26" wide at the pins and Cat-II is 32" wide at the pins. You need the Cat-I sway blocks or no sway blocks at all, then you don't have proper sway control.  If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY Dusty MI
Orange Level



Joined: 13 Sep
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 7:35am We had an A.C.  "C" that had the smaller PTO out put shaft.  917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep
Location: illinois
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 9:44am the "original" B tractor and maybe some C were 1- 1/8 inch as Jay said ( the small shaft on the C might have been added over the years)... .Allis later standardized on the 1- 3/8 inch that everyone was using... all 540 RPM. Like them all, but love the "B"s. Fantrum
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Joined: 02 Feb
Location: Missouri
Points: 240 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 11:29am Thanks, everyone! I greatly appreciate the feedback.
I've heard of these bushings for the lift pins. I didn't originally like the idea of them because it's just another part to lose when it sits in storage, but I can find solutions for that... other than the kiddos wanting to play with it, ha!
I'll look into the sway blocks, as that's something I could definitely see making a difference.So would most tractors use the same length of PTO shaft? This is the part that still confuses me. I know PTO splines/diameters are universal between 540s and s (separately).. Although I didn't know the B/C had smaller shafts - so interesting!I'm looking to upgrade my garden plot this year, and even move it completely. I've looked into rear tine tillers and they're a bit expensive for my taste.. The used selection is kind of terrible as well. Alternatively, I can just buy a 3 point tiller for less and even accomplish more work with less effort. Definitely considering it! Just would prefer to not have to replace a PTO shaft (for correct length) if possible.Thanks again! Tbone95
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Joined: 31 Aug
Location: Michigan
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 11:49am The measurement from the end of the PTO output shaft to the center of the draw pin, and the height of the shaft to the draw pin is a standard number.  The length of the drawbar depends on the implement, where it's support bearing is, to the next u-joint.  If the tractor shaft to pin measurements are correct, the shaft that comes with the implement should work.  If it's lost or something....You can try another shaft, just be certain it won't run out of stroke when you turn a tight corner or go into a dip, and be certain it won't pull apart when going over a hump. Fantrum
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Joined: 02 Feb
Location: Missouri
Points: 240 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 12:19pm Thanks, Tbone. Much appreciated!

I guess my last question, and one I didn't have previously.. So it's likely unknown what the gearbox HP rating is on used equipment, understandably so. So let's just assume my 90HP+ is oversized. Shear pin is practically necessary on the implement, but it doesn't have one on this tiller I'm looking at.
Is the best solution to replace the PTO shaft on the implement then? I assume so, to get one with a shear pin. I know prices will vary widely, but is this pretty much a deal breaker or is it fairly affordable with a low budget? Oops. Another question. My bad. Fantrum
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Joined: 02 Feb
Location: Missouri
Points: 240 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 12:27pm Well, I think I found answers. Apparently many rotary tillers use a slip clutch instead of shear pins. Makes sense, now that I know it exists. Even if I did need to replace the entire tiller shaft assembly, they're pretty affordable. Thanks again everyone! Much appreciated! steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep
Location: illinois
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 12:31pm our  bush hog mower has a shear pin... have a 5 ft tiller that has a splined shaff.. no shear pin.. we have used it that way for several years... If your tilling rocks and stumps it would not be a good idea... previous plowed field, or known grass field is doable. Like them all, but love the "B"s. Fantrum
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Joined: 02 Feb
Location: Missouri
Points: 240 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 28 Apr at 12:36pm Definitely rocks here in MO, lol.

This would be a previously untouched plot, so would definitely find some rocks. Heck, I dig 100lb rocks out of my front yard.. Guaranteed there's just as bad in the field. Les Kerf
Orange Level



Joined: 08 May
Location: Idaho
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 30 Apr at 10:29am steve(ill) wrote:

the "original" B tractor and maybe some C were 1- 1/8 inch as Jay said ( the small shaft on the C might have been added over the years)... .Allis later standardized on the 1- 3/8 inch that everyone was using... all 540 RPM.

I have personally owned three (3) Model C tractors and they all have the 1 1/8" PTO shafts; my current Model C is a unit.
PaulB wrote:

The problem of just swapping Cat-II pins or adding the bushings to a Cat-I implement and hooking it to a Cat-II tractor is; The Cat-I is 26" wide at the pins and Cat-II is 32" wide at the pins. You need the Cat-I sway blocks or no sway blocks at all, then you don't have proper sway control.  Going back to Paul’s point, you most likely can get by just removing one block if your cat 2 blocks have any wear. I put a ground down one on to use a cat 1 hitch bar that I only use for 1 job. Just make sure it doesn’t bind when lifting or will put extra wear one the joint eye’s.