In a recent post about electric fencing, I discussed one- and two-wire electric poultry fences, but I didn’t cover the practical aspects of making or using them. For a deeper dive into this topic, I encourage you to visit our website.

Interestingly, I came across a hilarious video showcasing a basic electric fence—though it’s designed for horses rather than the lower, chicken-friendly version.

Benefits of One-Wire Electric Fences

• You can easily step over them as they consist of a single wire positioned five inches above ground—no need for gates!
• You can drive directly over the fence wire without needing to switch it off; it will simply bounce back into place.
• In case a predator penetrates the fence, the chickens won’t be trapped by a one- or two-wire setup: they can quickly scatter, usually resulting in only one being caught. In contrast, traditional fencing can leave chickens vulnerable, allowing predators to keep attacking.
• If a chicken finds itself outside the fence, it will eventually muster the courage to cross it to return home. Conventional fencing can leave chickens stranded outside, which isn’t ideal.

One-Wire Electric Fences: Materials

• A fence charging unit: I personally use AC-powered units from Parmak. The larger capacity units are preferable because chickens’ fencing can easily short against molehills and grass, meaning you’ll need a robust zap.
• Step-in fence posts: These plastic posts with iron spikes at the bottom make installation simple. They have a small step that allows you to push them into the ground using your foot. Plan for one post every 20-30 feet of your fenceline.
• Aluminum fence wire: This is the preferred choice as it remains bright and visible, allowing both the chickens and other animals to see and avoid it. Galvanized wire tends to dull and become hard to see over time, while polywire can sag excessively.
• Insulators: Essential for transferring the charge from the charger to the fence. It’s convenient to house the charger in a barn or shed, running the high-voltage wire along the fence line. Some employ buried insulated wire at gates, but I opt to jump the fence on ten-foot poles (rot-resistant two-by-fours are suitable). Be sure to use insulators wherever the wire contacts other materials.

That’s pretty much all you need. I used to utilize metal T-posts at the corners, but I’ve moved away from that.

Arrange the wire around the perimeter you wish to fence off and install the posts. Adjust the posts until the wire is taut, ideally positioned 4-6 inches off the ground. Adding a second wire around 10 inches up can be beneficial, but it's not absolutely necessary.

This fence operates most effectively when enclosing a larger area, keeping chicken houses distant from it. In my case, the fence encircles several acres. If you prefer a tighter enclosure for your chickens, a more substantial option is needed.

Related links:
Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best Welded Wire Mesh Supplier
Why Is Galvanized Wire Mesh Important
Expanded Metal

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